FOR THOSE WHO CAN’T READ RUSSIAN!
For WTF Magazine, Russia – April 2014 Issue
February 5th-13th marked the official season of New York Fashion Week, fall 2014. Thousands of media outlets, buyers, stylists, celebrities, and fashion journalists from all around the world braved the frigid cold and messy snow storms and flocked to Lincoln Center to review the top American designer shows. Lincoln Center has been the home of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York since 2011. This season IMG, which owns MBFW, had mandated many changes to the overall event which included a redesigned on-site show venue that offered a more versatile environment. “The Pavilion”, a new and larger beautifully designed on location spot which quickly became a favorite among attendees was added. This space allowed designers to convert their seating assignments to their own liking. An off-site location entitled “The Hub” was added to the mix and positioned in the basement of Hudson Hotel only a few blocks downtown from Lincoln Center. Although “The Hub” was meant to be a presentation space for emerging designers such as Rebecca Valance, Alon Livné, and Cesar Galindo notable names like Charlotte Ronson and Trina Turk decided to keep it more intimate by showing there, as well
In addition to the two new event spaces the lobby of the tents at Lincoln Center had a massive makeover which wasn’t liked by most fashion insiders and had many pros and cons. Unlike the past seasons where the inside of fashion week had a lot of light, gumption and energy, this season’s ambiance was nothing more than lackluster and gloomy. With zero coat check, very dim lighting which was hard on the eyes, and minimal seating for guests to take a quick break in-between shows – these details left many attendees feeling somber and uncomfortable. Understandably, we ladies and gents need a place to rest from our chic toes after running from show to show. Fortunately, if you were a member of the press a newly designed elevated and very comfortable press lounge was offered for your use. However, the space was limited for those needing a place to set ut up shop and do on-site work.
There was a reason for these drastic changes. IMG and the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) wanted to turn back time to where New York Fashion Week was extremely exclusive. They chose to limit the amount of accredited media outlets and fashion bloggers by 40% to ward off unwanted fashion week crashers and so called street style bloggers and photographers who in the past had overwhelmingly crowded the venue and making it a zoo. With heightened security invited guests only including the press, had to present their invitations at approximately 4 different security check points before being granted admittance to their assigned show. This positively allowed for fashion week to once again be the mecca of hard work and dedication each designer puts forth for their time on the runway. We knew who ever was in attendance was there for the sole purpose of supporting the craftsmanship of the designers. That’s what fashion week is and should be all about globally – the designers! After all, if there weren’t fashion designers there wouldn’t be this marvelous event called Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week for them to show off their work to the world.
Now let’s talk fashion, shall we? As a fashion journalist I am very lucky to be able to attend many fashion shows throughout the week and highlight which shows I feel were most deserving to discuss. This time it was very hard narrowing it down because there were so many exceptional collections. However, it must be done so here we go.
Beautiful textures, floral prints, luxurious furs, glitzy embellishments, along with saturated and pastel hues are what are seen to be trending for the fall and winter of 2014. For the list of fashion’s elite; BCBG Max Azria was layering perfection done to a T including lots of asymmetrical hemlines and mixing and matching textures. It was all about menswear inspired looks for Rebecca Minkoff displaying Classic wool Crombie coats, gold lamé button-ups, relaxed trousers and faux fur and aviator jackets. Helmut Lang’s collection flat, clean, crisp fabrics put into a flashy spin of fun. Sweatshirts made from fur laser-cut in a deep, three-dimensional pattern stole the show along with red-orange skin tight leather bottoms. Prabal Gurung tickled our fancies by designing a collection high in sportswear filled with pumps adorned with tiny chiming bells and up to the neck pashmina wraps that looked as comfortable as they felt. Although a major emphasis on sportswear was present Prabal still presented his larger than life evening looks with a trio of gowns set over embroidered chiffon turtlenecks. Joseph Altuzara color blocked like no other with his use of rich blues and vibrant orange and hot pink at the lining to most of his looks. The collection was heavy on the well-tailored over coats all tied at the waist over long relaxed trousers, shift dresses and maxi skirts. Sleek and modern it was to the fullest. Monique Luhllier went a bit gothic for her fall 2014 collection with the use of skulls printed and embroidered into her clothing including bolero jackets and a silk neoprene dress. True to form Monique’s evening looks were absolutely stunning from mini cocktail dresses in black, pinks and golds with lace and sequin detailing to over the top ball gowns with floral prints and embroideries. Diane Von Furstenberg’s 40th Anniversary collection titled “Bohemian Wrapsody” was all that and a bag of chips! A collection predominantly centered on her iconic wrap dress in lots of bold geometric prints and bright colors was reminiscent of the 1970’s. Large wool and fur coats complimented the collection very well. Milly by Michelle Smith took to her ideas of the new chic ballerina for her inspiration designing a collection filled with light and airy movement-filled fabrics in creamy pastels. Mongolian lamb and knitted rabbit fur numbers to right below the knee pleated skirts and chevron fringe pants; this was truly a Milly moment. It was all on top of cloud nine for designer Marc Jacobs with his larger than life clouds suspended from the ceiling which was the true opener of the show. Starting with very minimalistic tank dresses of double-faced wool and scooped neck tops both matched with leggings looks in ivory, purple, and earth tone pastels gradually escalated to chunky fur cropped jackets, gorgeous crystal beaded swirl-print tunics and flared pants, to whimsically hand-painted organza ruffles on more tank dresses and pant outfits. It was simply a slice of heaven. Last but not least, new comer Georgine designed a collection worth of every woman’s closet. It was a collection that told a story of a sweet, sophisticated, smart, sexy yet tasteful and classy woman who was on a mission to be seen and understood as such. This perfectly tailored collection had a wide range of mixing and matching separates and elongated body-con silhouettes was a great contrast to oversized frocks. Chiffon blouses (some with fur cuffs), over-sized fur coats, cashmere button-less overcoats, asymmetrical leather skirts, floral print sequin blouses, and skinny floral printed silk slacks were absolute standouts in hues of olive-green, black, blues, camels, soft pink and fuchsia.
The greatest components that most designers added to their collections this season were versatility and wear ability. Overall, if you had any fear of what you’d be wearing in Fall 2014 I rest-a-sure you that you will have plenty of smart, tasteful, classic, and fun clothing options to choose. So, no matter what your personal style is you will absolutely find pieces to mix into your wardrobe and make your own! Till next fall…
Written by Dara Senders of StyleSenders.com
xoxo Dara Senders – The Style Senders